خطوات تصميم وتركيب وتشغل وحدات السوفتنر والمبادلات الانيونية

Water Softener Installation

Your softener comes with a manual that should explain all necessary detail

required for successful installation and operation of your system. Installation

procedures are similar for many of our available water softening systems, but

some models are installed in a slightly different fashion and may have different

control programming/setting procedures than described below. You should

always refer to the manual supplied with your softener during installation and

programming.

If you are mechanically inclined and have a little experience doing basic

plumbing, installing a water softener can be very easy. These instructions are

lengthy and detailed, but we want our customer’s installation experience to be a

pleasant one and want our customers to be satisfied with their own “professional”

installation.

 If you have an electric water heater, we recommend that you turn off the

electricity to the heater while installing the softener. Once you are

satisfied with the installation, turn on a few hot and cold-water faucets, and

let them run. Once there is no more air in your pipes, then turn the

electricity back on to the water heater.

The softener system can safely handle a pressure range of 25-95psi;

however, like most residential plumbing, for best operation and least wear

on critical parts, we recommend an operating range of 45-55psi.

Step 1:

The location of your softener is important. It should be in a protected dry, level

and non-freezing area (34-120 degrees F). If you have purchased a two tank

unit (rather than a single tank cabinet model), the brine tank and resin tank

should be placed close to each other. The larger of the two tanks is your brine

tank (for softener sodium chloride or potassium chloride salt) and it is the tank

that you will have to refill, so be sure to make it the more accessible of the two

tanks. If the softener is to be installed out-of-doors, care should be taken to keep

direct sunlight off the water softener tank, Softener tanks are semi-transparent,

and direct sunlight may cause algae to develop within the tank. 24K, 32K and

48K grain capacity softeners can be purchased with a tank jacket that will serve

to protect the unit from sunlight – 64K and larger sizes are not available with a

jacket - you can apply an acrylic spray paint to these tanks, or locate them in a

shaded area. Be sure to protect softener electronics and electrical connections

from exposure to weather, and follow all local electrical codes.

Step 2:

You will need a standard 3-prong, 120V, grounded outlet that is not controlled by

a switch. The outlet can be up to 50 feet from your softener. The furnished 12V

transformer has 10 feet of cord attached. If it is necessary to extend the length of

the transformer cord, it may be spliced to a maximum of 50 feet. Basic 18/2

AWG or thicker wire may be used. Splice connectors and extension wire are not

included, but are readily available at electrical or hardware stores.

Step 3:

You also need a drain location for the regeneration and/or backwashing cycles,

as your water softener sends water to drain during each regeneration cycle. If

possible, the drain should be no farther than 20 feet from the softener. You can

purchase flexible 5/8” outside diameter (1/2” inside diameter) plastic tubing from

CAI or your local hardware or building supply store. Some installers prefer to

make the drain line connection using rigid PVC. The tubing can be vinyl,

polyethylene, polybutylene, etc. If you are using flexible tubing, be sure that

there are no “crimps” in the tubing after installation, that may cause a flow

restriction. The drain line will be under pressure when the regeneration/backwash

cycle is working, therefore make sure the drain line is well secured. The drain

line will need to dump into a drain that is a minimum diameter of 1 1/2" and

ideally be below the top of the head of your softener. All local building codes

should be adhered to.

Drain connection locations vary with each control valve. With Autotrol, this

location is found on the bottom center of the by-pass valve (255 valves) or

centered below the inlet/outlet water connections on the rear of the valve (268

valves). Fleck valves generally have this connection located on the top of the

valve – refer to your manual for specific locations – you will see this connection

point located near the “drain line flow control” or DLFC. Clack manuals refer to

this connection point as the “drain elbow” near the DLFC, located on the top rear

of the valve, behind the brine line connection point.

Note: Never connect the drain line directly into a drain. Allow an air gap between

the drain tubing and waste line to prevent the possibility of reverse siphoning.

Often times, a washing machine drain is a conveniently located and can be used.

We do not recommend use of a check valve, as a check valve can fail, and lead

to reverse siphoning.

Step 4:

(Only required for water softener units that do not have the media pre-installed;

otherwise, skip to the next step)

Once you have determined the exact location of your softener it is time to fill the

media/mineral tank (smaller diameter of the 2 tanks) with the furnished media.

Water softener resin looks like tiny brown/yellow/tan beads. Systems using fine

mesh resin (Iron Eliminator Package Option), 64,000 grain and larger softeners

require that gravel is first placed at the bottom of the tank. Systems equipped

with a turbulator type distributor do not use any gravel.

The distributor tube (also called a riser) is the long plastic tube that is located in

the center of the resin tank. Many CAI softeners are supplied with turbulator

distributors. Turbulators look different then standard distributors, having both a

bottom and top basket, and an umbrella like deflector fitted near the top of the

tube. Any softener equipped with a turbulator does NOT use gravel as a

distribution bed.

Any softener not having a turbulator, or any 64,000 gain systems and larger,

ALWAYS use gravel underbedding. The table below shows how much gravel is

required for each system size:

System Size Gravel

24,000 grain ~12 pounds

32,000 grain ~12 pounds

48,000 grain ~15 pounds

64,000 grain ~25 pounds

80,000 grain ~30 pounds

96,000 grain ~50 pounds

The values shown above are approximate, after filling, the top level of gravel

should completely cover the basket screen found on the bottom of your

distributor tube.

Put the distributor tube into the mineral tank, the screen intake will be at the

bottom and the open end will be at the top. We have pre-cut the riser tube to the

proper length. The screen intake on the end of your riser tube (or turbulator)

should be resting on the bottom and centered.

Use tape to cover the open end of the distributor tube (or turbulator), to keep any

media from falling into the distributor tube while pouring the media into the

mineral tank.

(For non-turbulator and 64,000 grain and larger systems only)

Place a funnel into the mineral tank, and place the larger supplied “gravel” into

the tank. The gravel aids in even distribution of the water flow throughout the

resin, to soon be placed on top. While filling the bottom of the tank with gravel,

be careful to keep the distributor tube centered as best you can.

Place the supplied plastic funnel onto the top of the mineral tank, and begin to

add media into the tank. While filling, be careful to keep the distributor tube

centered as best you can. The fill level will vary depending on the capacity of the

system. In systems using fine mesh resin (Iron Eliminator Package) and 64K

and larger, there will only be enough media to fill the tank in the range of 1/2 to

3/4 full - the mineral tank should never be filled to the top. This remaining open

space is called “freeboard”, and necessary for the media to have room to move

during the backwash cycle. In systems equipped with a turbulator the resin level

will fill more of the tank, as less freeboard is required for proper function.

An easy, but slower, way to fill the mineral tank is to take a small scoop and pour

the media into the funnel. The media beads tend to stick to the funnel, so by

filling slowly, the media will go into the tank easier. If you try to fill too fast, you

will probably have difficulties. Once the filling of the mineral tank is completed,

remove the tape from the distributor tube. Do not pull upwards on the distributor

tube when doing this - it is important for the tube to rest on the bottom of the

tank.

With all fine mesh resin (Iron Eliminator) as well as some other standard

systems, there will be an upper screen that clips into the slot found on the bottom

of the valve (see diagram on last page for installation position). The screen is

secured in place with a slight twisting motion. It is very important to be sure to

install this screen when supplied.

The control valve (head) now must be screwed onto the mineral tank. As you

start to screw the control valve onto the tank, make sure the hole in the center of

the control valve fits over the distributor tube. NO pipe dope should be used on

the threads. The control valve should be hand tightened, snugly, clockwise. Try

not to over tighten the control valve, over tightening can make future removal

difficult.

Autotrol Performa valves only - With Autotrol Performa (268 - one inch) valves,

you will note a thumbwheel that is located on the bottom of the valve, around the

threads that will connect to the resin tank. This thumbwheel contains an O-ring in

a grooved slot, and serves as the primary tank-to-valve seal. After the control is

threaded into the tank, rotate the thumbwheel down onto the tank to make sure

that it’s O-ring is firmly seated onto the tank – do not over-tighten – just hand

tight to prevent leakage.

Step 5:

You are now ready to install the bypass valve to the control valve (head). The in

and out arrows on the bypass valve should be pointing the same direction as the

in and out arrows on the outside of the control valve. The arrows are molded into

the plastic (Noryl) on both the bypass valve and the control valve. If you have a

stainless steel by-pass valve, then you will see directional flow arrows on the

label below the by-pass handle.

ARGUMENTS FOR BUYING WATER SOFTENER SYSTEMS

خطوات تصميم وتركيب وتشغل وحدات السوفتنر والمبادلات الانيونية Water_softener_system-300x274

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Water softeners are very essential, to explain their importance and how they work, you need to understand the difference between soft and hard water. Hard water has large contents of calcium and magnesium. It causes mineral build-up in water pipes, heaters, dishwashers and showerheads. Soap ability to lather reduces and laundry becomes stiffer and they appear dull.

Since groundwater taken from wells is generally hard, one may decide to start using water softeners. It is crucial to find out whether your water is hard before deciding on whether your home needs water softener systems. If you are using municipal water, call the department to get information about their waters quality. If you are using water from a well, contact water softening companies who can conduct a test and determine its hardness.

How a Water Softener System Works

Water softener systems use a medium that serve to exchange ions of magnesium and calcium with potassium and sodium.

This is a four steps process: For ion replacement, water in the house is run through a resin basin of small plastic beads that are covered with potassium or sodium ions. The exchanges occur as water flows past the ions as they swap places with magnesium and calcium ions. The leads eventually contain calcium and magnesium and the softening process stops, and then the beads are regenerated.To regenerate, these beads need to regain their potassium or sodium ions. This is done by flooding them with a salty solution rich in potassium or sodium.After regeneration, the magnesium and calcium, sediments and dirt are flushed from the beads into the drain, this process is called backwash.Finally the mineral water is rinsed with fresh water and loads of brine so it’s ready for next softening cycle.

A water softener reduces the hardness on water, making it easy to clean fabrics and dishes and to shower. Softened water requires less soap during bathing and laundry; this makes the skin cleaner and clothing softer. Softened water contains reduced mineral-derived oduor and fewer deposit stains.

There are four types of water softeners, namely: offsite, manual, semi-automatic and automatic.

Offsite. The Company replaces the cylinder.
Manual. This requires a manual operation to execute backwashing, brining and tank rinsing.
Semi-automatic. Functions are automatically controlled, with an exception to regeneration.
Automatic. All functions inclusive of regeneration are automatically performed.

Water softeners are sold by water dealers, hardware stores and water departments and the units should be certified to appropriate standards. Automatic softeners are the most expensive, costing around $900 on average. The installation are done at the place where the water line enters your home installation is done by qualified professionals.

Maintenance of the water softener

خطوات تصميم وتركيب وتشغل وحدات السوفتنر والمبادلات الانيونية Soft_water-211x300

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Despite of most softeners lasting for several years, problems may frequently occur. The water softener should regenerate at least once a week for its longevity. You should check the following things when the softener is not working properly. Check for salt build-ups in the brine tank. Remove any crust, clean the tank with soap and water the rinse well. If there are iron on your water, check for any iron deposits in the resin bed and remove using an iron-removing products to clean the softener. Check whether the resin tank is plugged with dirty salt shut off the bypass plug of the softener and run a manual regeneration the clean the injector and its screen.

It is recommended to consider machines that minimize water usage during regeneration. One cycling is enough for a family use.

Concerns about Water Softeners

Softened water may contain microbiological contaminants that cause illness since water softeners cannot remove these micro-organisms. They should be used to treat drinking water that is microbiologically safe. The fact that sodium chloride is used for water softening raises concern about potential health dangers to persons suffering hypertension, congestive heart failure and kidney diseases. Potassium chloride is used as a safer alternative to sodium chloride however there are healthy risks involved.

The benefits of treating hard water

Cost savings in maintenance, service and replacements of heaters and showers.
Improves the efficiency of hot water and heating systems.
It saves 50% of washing powder and bathing soap consumption and cuts the use of conditioners, shampoos and cleaning products.
Saves a considerable time during cleaning when using softened water.
Removal of existing scale deposits in hot water, heating systems and scale around taps as well as bathroom and basin stains.
Water softeners leave the water with a clean, silky feeling and there is no need of bubble bath liquids.
Makes hair softer and easy to manage.
Leaves the laundry brighter, glasses and dishes sparkle and shine.
Water Softeners for Car Wash Water. Softened water cleans the car easier reducing streaking and spotting leaving the surface of your car spotless.

Water Softeners are also called water conditioners as they condition water by adding some excessive minerals. Best Water Softeners are made up of tubed tanks with the tubes running up and down the center of the tank. This enables the water to go into the tank around the top and go down it.

خطوات تصميم وتركيب وتشغل وحدات السوفتنر والمبادلات الانيونية Best_water_softener-253x300

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Picking up the best water softeners raises an issue as there are three types that exist. Timer Regenerated ones renew themselves based on a set time. Meter Regenerates Softener keeps track of water that individuals may use. Regeneration is done when it thinks it’s necessary and uses the salt pellets efficiently.

Manual Regenerated Systems do not have any timer or meters installed.

Modern waters softeners are easily portable and this makes it possible to carry them around as they involve quick installation techniques and fitting connections.

Some people consider buying or leasing a water softener. In short run, leasing is the most effective option because there are no substantial upfront costs. One can pay a minimum of $15 to a maximum of $50 per month on lease. For the buyers it may cost from $400 to $2500 and higher. When buying it is necessary to get two quotes based on the same type of considerations, then choose to work with an established company. This way you will get a quality product.

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