معالجة حمامات السباحة (الجرعات اليومية/الجرعات الطارئة/الصيانة الميكانيكية)

Basic Pool Care

Guidelines on running a privately owned swimming pool for those using chlorine sanitisers

Preliminaries

Basic Pool Care

Recommended Maintenance Program - Swimming Pool Chemicals

Recommended Maintenance Program - Swimming Pool Hardware

PRELIMINARIES

Buy a good chemical test kit

Calculate the volume of water in your pool using the formulae

For rectangular pools -

Length x Width x Ave depth (in feet) x 6.25 = volume in gallons

For round or oval pools -

Length x Width x Ave depth (in feet) x 4.9 = volume in gallons

To convert to cubic metres, divide the answer by 220.

Jot the figure down and keep it in a safe place. It is the foundation stone for sound pool management.

BASIC GUIDELINES

A man I knew who had run a pool centre for many years used to send his customers away with a note on the back of an envelope telling them what to do to keep their swimming pool water in good condition for the season.

He had written down two figures - the daily dose of chlorine required for the size of pool concerned, and what to do if the pH strayed outside the normal parameters.

These are the most important factors in achieving good water quality. As an absolute minimum, you should aim to:

MAINTAIN FREE CHLORINE LEVELS

Make sure free chlorine never falls below 1.0ppm.

This is to kill harmful germs and algae.

SHOCK DOSE

Superchlorinate the pool once a fortnight to bring the free chlorine up to 6-10ppm, using a shock chlorine.

This will break down chloramines and organic pollution.

CHECK THE pH

Correct the pH if it falls below 7.2 or rises above 7.6. Correct pH will ensure the chlorine is working effectively.

Many of the demonstration pools you see at pool centres do no more by way of day to day maintenance than that.

Most pool water disorders occur when there is no chlorine in the water, or when the pH has strayed.

For best results, however, it is strongly recommended that you should also keep a watch on:

Water balance the most important features of which are:

pH - as above

Total Alkalinity.

Low alkalinity can make it difficult to maintain the pH.

High alkalinity can lead to cloudy water or scale on the surfaces.

Calcium Hardness

Correct calcium hardness will help protect pool surfaces.

and for pools using stabilised chlorine donors:

Cyanuric Acid (stabiliser).

You need enough stabiliser to prevent waste of chlorine to sunlight, but not so much that it impairs the effectiveness of the chlorine.

RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE PROGRAM - CHEMICALS

Free Chlorine

Test daily (or more often in hot,sunny weather when the pool is in heavy use).

The free chlorine reading using the DPD no 1 test tablet should be between 1.0 - 2.5ppm (or up to 4 - 5ppm for pools using stabilised chlorines like dichlor and trichlor).

Dose rate

For dichlor -

125g per 15,000 gallons to raise free chlorine by 1ppm

For trichlor -

recharge the skimmer or feeder device with tablets and control chlorine levels by adjusting the water flow

For calcium hypochlorite -

100g per 15,000 gallons to raise the free chlorine by 1ppm

For sodium hypochlorite -

0.4 of a litre per 15,000 gallons to raise the free chlorine by 1 ppm

Superchlorinate

Once a fortnight, superchlorinate, preferably with an unstabilised chlorine such as calcium hypochlorite or calcium hypochlorite to raise the free chlorine to 6-10ppm.

Calculate the dose rate from the figures in the preceding section.

WARNING: NEVER MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF CHLORINE TOGETHER BEFORE DOSING, AND DO NOT ALLOW THEM TO MEET IN A CONCENTRATED FORM.

IF SUPERCHLORINATING VIA THE SKIMMER, ENSURE THAT ANY CHLORINE TABLETS ARE REMOVED FROM IT FIRST.

pH

Test daily (or more often in hot,sunny weather when the pool is in heavy use).

The pH reading using the phenol red test tablet should be between 7.2 and 7.6 (or as near the mid-point - 7.4 as possible).

Dose rate

To raise pH - 0.7kg of soda ash (sodium carbonate) per 15,000 gallons per day until the correct reading is obtained.

To lower pH - 0.7kg of dry acid (sodium bisulphate) per 15,000 gallons per day until the correct reading is obtained. Dose the dry acid by dispersing over as wide an area of the pool as possible.

Total Alkalinity

Test once a month.

The alkalinity reading using the Alkalinity M tablet count test should be between 100-200ppm for pools using stabilised chlorines; 80-120ppm for calcium hypochlorite or 120-150ppm for sodium hypochlorite.

Dose rate

To raise the alkalinity -

2kg of sodium bicarbonate per 15,000 gallons per day until the correct reading is obtained.

To lower the alkalinity -

1.4kg of dry acid (sodium bisulphate) per 15,000 gallons per day until the correct reading is obtained.

Dose the dry acid in one spot in the pool - in this way it will affect alkalinity more than pH

Calcium Hardness

Test two or three times a season.

The calcium hardness reading using the tablet count test should be above 350ppm - the top limit is not too important.

Dose rate

To raise the calcium hardness, add calcium chloride flakes at the dose rate recommended on the pack.

If it is difficult to keep calcium hardness above 350ppm, you should consider changing to calcium hypochlorite as your principal pool sanitiser

Cyanuric Acid

Test once a fortnight.

The cyanuric acid (stabiliser) reading using the turbidity/disappearing dot test should be a minimum of 30ppm to prevent decomposition of chlorine to sunlight in outdoor pools.

The maximum level is a matter of debate - most professionals take the view that the performance of the chlorine is adversely affected if cyanuric acid goes above 160ppm.

Dept of the Environment guidelines are for a ceiling of 200ppm.

Best to aim for the lower figure - 160ppm.

Dose rate

To raise the stabiliser level (which will usually only be necessary in pools on unstabilised chlorines) - 2kg of cyanuric acid per 15,000 gallons.

To lower the stabiliser level - there is no chemical additive to achieve this. You will need to replace part of the pool water with fresh.

The volume of water to be replaced will bepro rata e.g. to lower the stabiliser level from 180ppm to 160ppm, it will be necessary to replace just over 10% of the water.

RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE PROGRAM - POOL HARDWARE

Cycle time

In general, the longer the pool water is being filtered, the better it cleans the water.

As a minimum, run the circulation pump continuously when bathers are in the pool, and for four hours out of twelve at all other times.

Filter

The purpose of the filter is to trap suspended particles in the sand or other media and stop them getting back into the pool.

It is essential that the efficiency of the filter is not impaired.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions and backwash it (i.e. reverse the flow and drain the dirt that has accumulated on the top of the media to waste).

This should be done at least once a fortnight, but watch the pressure guage and do it more often if necessary.

Sand should need renewal every 7 to 10 years.

Check that flow through the pump strainer is not impeded by rubbish as part of the backwash routine.

Skimmers

Clean the skimmers once a week taking out leaves and anything else that could obstruct the water flow.

Vacuuming

If you are not operating an automatic pool sweep, vacuum the pool once a week to remove solids that are not floating in suspension.

Some (aluminium-based) water clarifiers will drop accumulated solids to the bottom of the pool, and vacuuming may be required shortly after treatment -

Brushing

Brush the sides and bottom of the pool frequently, ensuring that any algae that may be discolouring the tiles, grouting or liner is removed (look for this around the steps, under-water lights and 'dead spots'

where water movement is minimal).

Brush towards the drain so that debris and dirt is drawn into the hopper and onto the filter.

Tide Marks

Clean dirt from the water line with a chlorine compatible tile and liner cleaner if it appears.

Greasy deposits can act as breeding sites for algae.

Algaecides

Green Algae –

is very susceptible to chemical treatment.

Superchlorinate with 10 to 20 ppm chlorine in the evening.

Keep the filter running and brush the pool walls and bottom.

Periodically check chlorine and maintain above 3 ppm until water clears.

Using an algeicide containing quaternary ammonia the next morning will help prevent the return of green algae.

Mustard Algae –

is much more resistant to chemical treatment and clings more tightly to pool walls than green algae.

Adjust pH and superchlorinate as for green algae then brush carefully.

Later vacuum the pool, check chlorine and superchorinate again if necessary.

Mustard algae will generally return unless treated with a special mustard algicide or a copper based (CuSo4) algicide.

Algicide

should be added in the morning to treat algae in daylight - its most active period.

Black Algae –

can be controlled to some extent by frequent superchlorination and careful brushing with a stiff brush.

(You should have a wire-brush attachment for your telescopic pole).

Spot treatments can be made by turning off the recirculation pumps and pouring granular chlorine directly on recently brushed spots.

You need to use strong algicides and maintenance of relatively high free-chlorine residual, but complete removal of black algae may require draining and cleaning the pool.

Cupper sulfate (34-40% cu)

A very good "shock" for an algae bloom is liquid chlorine - it is cheaps, works quickly, will not harm the pool surface.

It also breaks down into plain water in 1-2 days, leaving no residuals.

Be sure to also algea brush your pool daily to eliminate spores on the pool wall (which chlorine cannot invade).

Good pool hygiene is the best remedy against algae, but you can always try first by using plain Copper Sulphate (CuSO4) crystals dissolved in water.

You can obtain this from a chemicals supplier quite cheaply.

Copper concentration at 1ppm or above in the pool water is a problem.

Staining can be an issue.

A pool concentration of 0.3 ppm – 0.6 ppm is usually considered "algae control" typical level.

Any level above this will likely turn the hair green.

Taking weight ratio, 1 kg. of CuSO4 releases (63.546 g/mole Cu) / (159.61 g/mole CuSO4) = 0.405 kg. of elemental copper in the pool water.

To achieve a target of 0.5 ppm of elemental Cu in 1,00,000 litres of pool water 0.05 kg. elemental Cu is required.

Therefore, the required dose of CuSO4 is (0.05/0.405) = 0.125 kg. for 1,00,000 litres of pool water.

Potassium Tetraborate:

This chemical, when added to the pool water in proper dosage, prevents algae from converting carbon dioxide into the fuel it needs for growth.

It is quite effective.

Another item to look at is the method of sanitation and the type of filtering you have.

Far too many pools out there were sold with marginal filter systems, meant to run 24 hrs per day.

Well, these systems get old and tired, or the new owners only run it 12 hrs per day (or less).

For good algae prevention, you need a combination of good filtration, sanitation and circulation.

Sodium Bromide Algaecide

When you add the sodium bromide and follow with a shock treatment, the bromide is converted into hypobromous acid the active sanitizing form of bromine.

Certain types of algae such as yellow mustard algae and bacterial conditions such as water mold or "pink" algae appear to more vulnerable to bromine than to chlorine.

These problematic conditions, that seemed resistant to shock treatment, are controlled and eliminated by the action of bromine.

It doesn't necessarily work as well against all types of algae and bacterial conditions, but against certain chlorine-resistant problems it is very effective.

While it will help solve the problem and make the water smell and be less irritating, it will increase the chlorine usage.

Mustard algae can be treated in two effective ways and, both are good.

Chelated Copper Algaecides are effective in controlling this type of algae.

The chelated types of copper algaecide will require additions every week or two and this will certainly help, in your case.

The sanitizer level, chlorine, is probably not being maintained adequately at all times.

Make sure that you maintain a 1-3 PPM level of Free Chlorine, at all times.

Do this and it is unlikely that you will see the mustard algae problem returning, with any regularity.

If you don't have an automatic pool cleaner, consider adding a suction-side cleaner to your skimmer intake.

These cleaners are quite affordable and are very effective at cleaning and improving the water circulation on the bottom.

In the case of your above ground pool, it can act as a main drain, while operating.

Another effective treatment for mustard algae is the use of one of those "Yellow" Products, containing sodium bromide.

With a shock treatment, it will generate bromine, which seems to be especially effective against mustard algae.

When shocking a pool make sure that you add enough product and it is added frequently enough to boost the Free Chlorine level to 5-10 ppm.

Make sure that the pH is 7.2-7.6.

Try to maintain at least 1-3 ppm, through the overnight period.

Keep the filter operating continuously, until the problem is controlled.

Once the problem is controlled resume normal chlorination and filtration.

Poor circulation creates dead zones that promote algae growth.

Better circulation assures better distribution of the sanitizing chemicals and makes algae problems less likely.

Algae can grow in swimming pools if nutrients are present and a sufficient level of free chlorine is not maintained.

In addition to properly dosing your water, it is recommended that the algaecide be added in the morning on a bright sunny day for best results.

Algae are plants and grow in the presence of sunlight.

Adding algaecide during algae's best growth time will increase intake of the algaecide and make it more effective.

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