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Nature2 Purifier Installation

It's As Easy As 1 - 2 - 3!

Quick Installation of Nature2

In Ground Units: The Professional G model or the Fusion model come complete with installation instructions shown on the box, in the box, and on the unit.

If you have a hacksaw and some PVC glue, you're halfway there! Simply cut the return pipe (after the filter and before any chemical dispenser), and glue the pipe ends in & out of the unit. Adapters allow for 1.5" and 2" pipe diameter size, you need about 12” of clear line, where the unit can be supported and where access to the unit is easy.

If you use a cartridge filter, you can use the Nature2 CF model – the cartridge drops inside of your cartridge filter.

No purifier unit is needed, your pool filter is the housing for the cartridge, and does not reduce the filtering ability of your cartridge nor block flow in any way.

It could be said that having the Nature2 CF cartridge inside of your filter can only lead to a more sanitary and clean filter environment, even when the pump is off.

Nature2 EXPRESS models require no plumbing to be installed.

Just drill a hole with the pvc hole saw provided, and saddle clamp the unit to the pipe.

All you need is a drill and a Phillips head screwdriver to install the Express unit (up to 25,000 gallons). Now that’s easy!

What’s not to like? No electrical hookup, bypass, special knowledge or permit needed! You'll find the same simplicity of installation in the start up and care of your Nature2 Purifier models. Installation of any of the Nature2 systems is a cinch!

Simple Start Up of Nature2

Balance Pool Water before installing your Nature2 cartridge.

If opening the pool, allow balancing chemicals added to circulate for several hours.

Unscrew the lid, and drop in the cartridge. Replace lid.

Shock the pool with granular chlorine. Use 1 lb. of granular or 1 gallon of liquid per 10,000 gallons of pool water to burn off contaminants and activate the cartridge.

This step cannot be bypassed. Using non-chlorine shock is not recommended, rather use “Cal Hypo”, or Calcium Hypochlorite. It comes in 1lb bags.

Use the entire bag if opened, never store opened bags of pool shock.

NOTE: Initial shock treatment with chlorine is required even with Chlorine - Free Recipe.

Run the filter pump for 24 hours a day for 3-4 days, keeping chlorine level at 1-2ppm.

Let pool chlorine level dissipate to 0.4 - 0.6 PPM once start up period is complete.

Easy Pool Care with Nature2

Use one of these simple recipes:

Low-Chlorine Recipe

Ingredients:

Nature2 Purifier with fresh cartridge

Chloriranune Gles for initialization, tablets afterwards

pH and total Alkalinity adjusting chemicals

Standard water balance pool test kit

Cyanuric Acid, aka...Water conditioner or Pool Stabilizer

What to do and when to do it:

Every day...Run pump and filter at least 6 hours per day.

Once a week...Balance pH & Total Alkalinity

Twice a week...Check chlorine residual; maintain 0.4 - 0.6 PPM.

As needed...If water is hazy or algae is present or you have heavy pool use, shocking the pool is recommended. You may use chlorine or non-chlorine shock treatments.

Follow label instructions carefully.

Some pools can go several months without shocking, if they are very well filtered and cleaned but used very little.

Chlorine-Free Recipe

Ingredients:

Nature2 Purifier with new Cartridge

Non-chlorine Shock {Potassium Peroxymonosulfate}

pH & Total Alkalinity adjustment chemicals

Standard water balance pool test kit or strips

What to do and when to do it:

Every day...run pump and filter at least 12 hours every day.

Once a week...balance pH and total alkalinity; add 1 lb of non-chlorine shock per 10,000 gallons.

As needed...If water is hazy or after rainstorms, add non-chlorine shock. If algae blooms, begin a regimen of algaecide treatment.

algaecides are useful when pool filter size or run times are compromised.

Recommended to also use a combination enzyme/phosphate remover. Great Lakes Bio and Natural Chemistry both make these pool chemicals.

It is important that you have a oversized pool filter, preferably D.E., to compensate for the lack of chlorine. Increased pump operation time may also be needed.

Look for cloudy, hazy water or algae growth as indications that something is lacking in one or more of the following areas: circulation, filtration, sanitation.

Swimming Pool Mineral Ionizers

by

general.dr

bahaa badr

technolab el-bahaa group

An ion is an atom, or group of atoms that possess an electrical charge.

Ions exist everywhere and your pool is full of ions. It was discovered long ago that copper ions behave as an algaestat, that is, they inhibit algae growth, while silver ions behave as a bactericide, that is, they kill bacteria.

A pool ionizer is a device that uses electricity to produce these metal ions right in the plumbing, so they are dispersed into the water to do their work.

Copper and/or silver electrodes are energized with a low voltage, DC current supplied from the equipment sub panel.

The voltage is applied to two metallic electrodes placed in close proximity to each other within the plumbing pipe.

The electrical current causes atoms of the copper or silver electrode to lose an electron and become cations.

These cations are drawn towards the opposite electrode, but are swept away by the rushing water passing by.

After this introduction in the water, these ions float dissolved in water until they encounter a microorganism.

Pool Ionization is not a stand alone sanitizer.

Pool ionizers cannot oxidize organic matter effectively, so additional chlorine or non-chlorine shock treatment is necessary.

There also is the potential for staining of interior surfaces.

Copper can deposit itself on these surfaces, giving a blue-green color, {which isn't too bad to look at, some pool people like the color}.

Silver can react with sunlight, similar to the way photographs are produced, and create black stains on the plaster.

Used properly, and not overused, electric pool ionizers won't stain. Use of a sequestering agent (Stain & Scale product) is recommended if you use one of these systems.

Electrical pool ionizers such as Caribbean Clear, Power Ionizer or the Floatron solar powered floating ionizer all operate essentially the same way.

Copper and Silver ions reduce the amount of micro-contaminants in the pool water, which reduces your chlorine demand.

Some folks use a pool ionizer continuously, and shock the pool weekly, eliminating the need for tablets.

Frequent shocking however, may cause excess minerals to precipitate out of solution, depositing itself on pool surfaces.

TDS levels in a pool are recommended to be below 1000ppm, for a swimming pool mineral ionizer to work effectively. Hard water pools, with Calcium Hardness levels in excess of 500ppm may also need to clean the electrodes more often to remove scale deposits.

High water temperatures can reduce the effectiveness of the minerals to sanitize. When pool water temperatures exceed 80 degrees, more of a halogen sanitizer (i.e. Chlorine) may be needed to effectively maintain pool water clarity.

Ionizers can reduce reliance on traditional chemicals, or provide additional power to your sanitation program.

Copper and Silver ions are not harmful, even if the pool water is being swallowed, in such low levels.

Too much copper can turn your hair green, especially for blonde swimmers. Too much copper can also stain your plaster or white plastic surfaces.
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